The 2-Carat Sapphire That Looked Like 1.5 Carats

Two sapphires sit side by side. Both are 2 carats. Both are royal blue. Both are VS clarity. One is priced at $3,200. The other at $5,800.

Why the $2,600 difference?

The cutting.

The $3,200 stone was cut in a high-volume facility in Bangkok where the priority was weight retention. It has a bulky pavilion (70% depth), poor symmetry, and visible windowing—you can see straight through the center of the stone. It looks dull and lifeless.

The $5,800 stone was precision-cut by an Australian lapidary where the priority was optical performance. It has optimal proportions (65% depth), perfect symmetry, and maximum light return. It sparkles, glows, and looks like a 2.5-carat stone.

Same weight. Completely different value. The difference is cutting.

Here's why your sapphire's cut matters more than its carat weight—and how to recognize the difference between weight-retention cutting and precision cutting.

The Economics of Cutting: Why Most Sapphires Are Poorly Cut

Weight Retention Cutting (The Industry Standard)

Goal: Maximize carat weight to maximize wholesale value

Method:

• Cut deep pavilions to retain weight
• Minimize material loss
• Use standard shapes and proportions regardless of rough shape
• Prioritize speed over precision

Cost: $15-$50 per carat

Result: Heavy stones with poor light return, windowing, extinction, and mediocre brilliance

Precision Cutting (The Premium Approach)

Goal: Maximize optical performance and beauty

Method:

• Calculate optimal proportions for each stone
• Sacrifice weight for better light return
• Custom angles and facet arrangements
• Perfect symmetry and polish

Cost: $80-$200+ per carat

Result: Lighter stones with superior brilliance, no windowing, maximum color saturation, and exceptional beauty

The Trade-Off

A 3-carat rough sapphire might yield:

• Weight-retention cut: 2.1-carat finished stone worth $2,500-$4,000
• Precision cut: 1.7-carat finished stone worth $3,500-$6,000

The precision-cut stone weighs less but is worth more because it's dramatically more beautiful.

The Anatomy of a Well-Cut Sapphire

Depth Percentage (The Critical Metric)

Formula: (Depth ÷ Width) × 100

Optimal ranges by shape:

• Oval: 60-70% (ideal: 63-67%)
• Cushion: 65-75% (ideal: 68-72%)
• Round: 60-70% (ideal: 62-68%)
• Emerald cut: 60-70% (ideal: 63-68%)

Too shallow (under 60%): Light leaks out the bottom (windowing), weak color

Too deep (over 75%): Weight concentrated in pavilion, stone looks smaller than its carat weight, dark center (extinction)

Table Percentage

Formula: (Table Width ÷ Stone Width) × 100

Optimal range: 55-65% for most sapphires

Too small (under 50%): Reduced brilliance, stone looks dark

Too large (over 70%): Windowing, reduced fire and scintillation

Symmetry

What to check:

• Facets meet at points (not offset)
• Outline is symmetrical (not lopsided)
• Culet is centered
• Crown and pavilion facets align

Poor symmetry: Uneven light return, lopsided appearance, reduced value

Polish Quality

Excellent polish: Mirror-smooth facets, maximum light return

Poor polish: Scratches, pits, or hazy facets that scatter light and reduce brilliance

The Visual Problems of Poor Cutting

Windowing (The See-Through Effect)

What it is: Light passes straight through the stone instead of reflecting back to your eye, creating a 'window' where you can see through to the background

Cause: Pavilion too shallow or angles incorrect

Visual impact: Stone looks washed out, pale, lifeless in the center

Value impact: -20-40%

Extinction (The Dark Center)

What it is: Areas of the stone appear dark or black because light is trapped inside instead of returning to your eye

Cause: Pavilion too deep or angles incorrect

Visual impact: Stone looks smaller, color appears uneven, reduced brilliance

Value impact: -15-35%

Bow-Tie Effect (The Dark Band)

What it is: A dark band across the center of oval, pear, or marquise cuts

Cause: Inherent to elongated shapes, but severity depends on cutting precision

Visual impact: Mild bow-ties are acceptable; severe bow-ties make the stone look broken or damaged

Value impact: Mild: -5-10%; Severe: -25-40%

Bulging Pavilion (The Hidden Weight)

What it is: Excessive depth in the pavilion that's hidden when the stone is set

Cause: Weight retention cutting—keeping as much rough as possible

Visual impact: Stone looks smaller than its carat weight suggests

Value impact: -20-35% (you're paying for weight you can't see)

Why Australian Sapphires Deserve Precision Cutting

The Color Argument

Australian sapphires—particularly partis and teals—have unique color characteristics that precision cutting enhances:

• Parti sapphires: Proper cutting showcases color zoning, positioning zones for maximum visual impact
• Teal sapphires: Optimal proportions balance blue and green hues, preventing one color from dominating
• Royal blues: Precision cutting prevents overly dark appearance (Australian blues tend toward 70-80% tone)

The Value Argument

Australian sapphires are premium stones (unheated, ethical sourcing, unique colors). Pairing them with cheap cutting is like putting a Ferrari engine in a Corolla body.

A $2,000 rough Australian parti deserves $200 precision cutting, not $30 weight-retention cutting.

The Rarity Argument

As Australian sapphire supply declines, each stone becomes more valuable. Maximizing beauty through precision cutting makes economic sense—a well-cut 1.6-carat stone is worth more than a poorly cut 2-carat stone from the same rough.

How to Evaluate Cutting Quality

The Tilt Test

Tilt the stone back and forth under light. A well-cut sapphire will:

• Show even light return across the entire face
• Display consistent color
• Sparkle and scintillate as you move it

A poorly cut sapphire will:

• Show dark areas (extinction) or see-through areas (windowing)
• Have uneven color distribution
• Look dull or lifeless

The Background Test

Place the stone face-up on a white surface and look straight down through the table. You should see:

• Vibrant, saturated color
• No clear view of the background (no windowing)
• Even light return

If you can clearly see the white background through the center, the stone has windowing.

The Profile Test

Look at the stone from the side. Check:

• Depth: Should be 60-75% of width (measure with calipers if possible)
• Pavilion bulge: Should taper smoothly, not bulge excessively
• Symmetry: Crown and pavilion should be balanced

The Comparison Test

Compare the stone to others of similar carat weight. Does it look:

• Smaller? Weight is hidden in the pavilion (poor cutting)
• Similar or larger? Good proportions and spread

Cutting Styles for Different Sapphire Types

Parti Sapphires: Showcase the Zoning

Best cuts:

• Oval: Elongates color zones, creates visual flow
• Cushion: Softens color boundaries, vintage appeal
• Emerald cut: Creates distinct color blocks, modern aesthetic

Avoid: Round brilliant (homogenizes colors, defeats the purpose of a parti)

Key consideration: Orient the stone to position color zones attractively—blue at the top, green at the bottom, or vice versa depending on preference

Teal Sapphires: Balance the Blue-Green

Best cuts:

• Oval: Maximizes color play and brilliance
• Round brilliant: Creates maximum sparkle, balances color
• Cushion: Softens color, romantic appeal

Key consideration: Proper depth prevents one color from dominating—too shallow emphasizes blue, too deep emphasizes green

Royal Blue Sapphires: Maximize Brilliance

Best cuts:

• Round brilliant: Maximum light return, classic appeal
• Oval: Larger appearance, excellent brilliance
• Cushion: Vintage aesthetic, good light return

Key consideration: Australian blues tend dark (70-80% tone), so optimal depth is critical—too deep creates extinction

The Cost-Benefit of Precision Cutting

Scenario: 2.5-Carat Rough Australian Parti

Option 1: Weight-Retention Cutting

• Cutting cost: $30-$50
• Finished weight: 1.9 carats
• Quality: Windowing, poor proportions, mediocre color display
• Wholesale value: $1,800-$2,400
• Retail value: $2,800-$3,800

Option 2: Precision Cutting

• Cutting cost: $180-$250
• Finished weight: 1.5 carats
• Quality: Optimal proportions, vivid color display, excellent brilliance
• Wholesale value: $2,400-$3,200
• Retail value: $4,200-$6,000

Result: Precision cutting costs $150-$200 more but increases value by $1,400-$2,200. The smaller, better-cut stone is worth 40-60% more.

How to Buy Well-Cut Sapphires

Ask for Measurements and Proportions

Request:

• Length × Width × Depth in millimeters
• Depth percentage
• Table percentage

Calculate depth percentage yourself: (Depth ÷ Width) × 100. If it's outside 60-75%, be cautious.

Request Video

Photos can hide cutting flaws. Video shows:

• Light return as the stone moves
• Windowing or extinction
• Color consistency
• Brilliance and scintillation

Ask About the Cutter

Where was the stone cut? By whom? Precision cutters are proud of their work and dealers will mention it. If the dealer doesn't know or won't say, it was probably cut in a high-volume facility.

Compare Per-Carat Pricing

A well-cut 1.5-carat sapphire at $3,000/carat ($4,500 total) is better value than a poorly cut 2-carat sapphire at $2,000/carat ($4,000 total).

Don't just compare total price—compare quality and visual impact.

Prioritize Beauty Over Weight

Would you rather have:

• A 2-carat sapphire that looks like 1.5 carats and sparkles weakly?
• A 1.6-carat sapphire that looks like 2 carats and sparkles brilliantly?

The second option is better value every time.

The Bottom Line

Carat weight is just a number. Cutting quality determines how beautiful, brilliant, and valuable your sapphire actually is.

A poorly cut 2-carat sapphire can look worse and be worth less than a precision-cut 1.5-carat sapphire. The difference is:

• Light return (brilliance)
• Color saturation (visual impact)
• Apparent size (spread)
• Overall beauty (what actually matters)

Don't chase carat weight. Chase cutting quality.

Your sapphire's cut matters more than its carat—because beauty matters more than numbers on a certificate.

Every Australian sapphire in our collection is precision-cut by skilled lapidaries who prioritize optical performance over weight retention. We provide detailed measurements, depth percentages, and video so you can see exactly how well each stone is cut. Beauty first, carat weight second.